In 2005, he left the fashion world and the brand where he was the main designer and creative director from its establishment, and which today still holds his name. It is an unusual move, one could say, but as Lang said in one interview, “My intention was always to become an artist.”¹
In 2005, when he focused on his art practice, we decided to present one of the few rare spaces worldwide, presenting the archive of Helmut Lang. With the great legacy he left behind at his design label—a body of work that is today a big inspiration to young fashion designers but also to artists—we wanted to recommend this place as a place for inspiration, research, and information on the bridge between art and fashion. The archive is open to the public and is always on view in the Design Lab in the Museum of Applied Arts in Vienna. The temporary intervention of the artist in the permanent space dedicated to his ongoing archive is of great importance. The MAK has since 2014 dedicated a thematic area in its Design Lab to house Lang’s body of work from 1986 to 2005, the year he exited the fashion industry to focus on his art. In addition to the collection at the MAK, more than 20 museum collections worldwide house a combined 800 Helmut Lang looks in their collections, donated by the designer. After his conscious departure from the fashion world, he started only focusing on his career in art. His art spans various mediums, including sculpture, photography, installation, and mixed media. Lang’s artwork often explores themes of identity, consumerism, and the human condition, reflecting his keen observation of society and culture. He frequently incorporates unconventional materials and techniques into his pieces, pushing the boundaries of traditional artistic expression. Lang’s art is characterized by its thought-provoking nature, inviting viewers to contemplate and engage with the complexities of the modern world.
Helmut Lang was born in Vienna, Austria, in 1956. He started designing clothing without any formal education; he delved into the world of clothing design in 1977 with a huge passion. A pivotal move to the fashion capital of Paris in 1986 marked the genesis of his iconic brand. Though Helmut Lang gracefully exited the fashion scene in 2005 to devote himself entirely to his career in art, his indelible mark persists. His influence reverberates throughout contemporary runways. Lang’s signature aesthetic, characterized by razor-sharp tailoring and gender-fluid, utilitarian designs embellished with bondage-inspired motifs, ushered in a new era of minimalism during the 1990s. He redefined the notion of luxury, and his design lexicon is still shaping the landscape of fashion today.
This text is part of our WallArt Journal #2, which we specially produced for the SPARK Art Fair 2024 in Vienna. You can find copies around Vienna, or if you want to have one, feel free to contact us. Link to the WallArt Journal #2
Address and contact:
MAK – Museum of Applied Arts
Stubenring 5, 1010 Wien
www.mak.at
¹ Vogue Magazine, “No Regrets.” Helmut Lang Speaks About His “Living Archive” Intervention at the MAK in Vienna and His Work in Fashion BY LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON February 26, 2020
Note: This text is part of our WallArt Journal #2, which we specially produced for the SPARK Art Fair 2024 in Vienna. You can find copies around Vienna, or if you want to have one, feel free to contact us.